The Honest Guide to Goa in Shoulder Season: What We Loved, What We’d Skip, and Everything in Between

When planning our trip to Goa, we knew we wanted to experience both North and South — from the vibrant party energy and cliffside cafés of Anjuna to the quieter, palm-lined beaches of the south. But if you’ve ever tried researching the best areas to stay in Goa, you’ll know just how overwhelming and unclear it can be, especially when it comes to the shoulder season. Every travel forum seemed to contradict the next, and we struggled to find anything that felt current or honest. So, here’s our attempt to provide exactly that.

When to Go

We arrived on the 2nd of April — the day the last charter flights left for the season. This meant: zero crowds, quiet beaches, and empty restaurants. If you’re someone who loves having the sand to yourself and doesn’t mind a slower pace, this timing is ideal. But it also came with downsides: local markets weren’t running, many beach clubs and bars were closed, and some towns felt deserted. Plan accordingly depending on whether you crave solitude or energy.

Where to Stay: North vs South Goa

We kicked off our trip in Anjuna, lured by its reputation as a hub for creatives, backpackers, and beachside cafes. While the low season meant much of the town was quiet, there were still a few gems open and worth visiting. Eva Café became our go-to breakfast spot, perched right over the sea with a beautiful breeze and even better coffee. For sunset drinks, The Purple Martini delivered: panoramic views, live music, cocktails, and a menu far better than expected. Fat Fish, a little inland, also surprised us — great Goan food, a pool table, and more atmosphere than you’d guess from the outside. (Skip the cocktails though — they were a miss.)

Wanting to experience the south too, we booked our next stay in Colva Beach, which several travel sites called “popular” and “lively.” Honestly? We hated it. The beach was littered with rubbish, the air smelled like off fish, and the atmosphere was anything but welcoming. It didn’t take us long to pack up and head down the coast in search of something better — and thank god we did.

Benaulim Beach: Our Unexpected Slice of Paradise

Just 10 minutes from Colva is Benaulim Beach, which felt like a hidden paradise in comparison. We stayed at Blue Corner Beach Shacks, a beachfront haven with budget-friendly huts (around £20 per night), a restaurant that served some of the best food we had in Goa, beach loungers, and a pool table. It felt like our own private slice of the coastline.

The vibe was mellow, the seafood was fresh, and we spent our days reading, swimming, and watching the waves with barely anyone else around. Right next door, Johncy’s Restaurant was another standout — the kind of beachside dining spot where you can watch the sun sink behind the horizon with a cold beer in hand.

If you’re in Colva and still need a dinner spot, The Red Ginger is one of the few places we’d recommend — stylish, tasty, and a little escape from the chaos.

What to Do: Waterfalls, Wildlife & Warnings

One of the highlights of our trip was a day trip to Dudhsagar Falls, one of India’s tallest waterfalls nestled inside a lush nature reserve. It’s a bit of a mission to get there — about a few hours' drive from Benaulim — but completely worth it.

We booked a private driver, which we can’t recommend enough. He handled everything: from getting us there early (pro tip: go early to catch wildlife before the crowds arrive) to helping us buy tickets for the 4x4 jeep transfer to the falls. These jeeps only leave once they have seven passengers, so be prepared for a bit of a wait.

Packing tips: Bring snacks and plenty of water — but leave them in the car unless you want a monkey rummaging through your bag. They are ruthless. Also, if you plan on swimming, opt for a more conservative swimsuit. Goa might be a beach state, but outside the main tourist strips, bikinis can feel very out of place.

Goa in April is a gamble — and that’s what makes it so memorable. You’ll either love the peace or miss the buzz. Our advice? Skip Colva. Start in Anjuna if you want a taste of North Goa’s charm, then head south to Benaulim for warm, quiet beaches and a slower pace of life.

And if, like us, you found the internet unhelpful and contradictory when planning your route, we hope this gave you a clearer picture of what to expect. We came looking for both sides of Goa — and despite a few detours, we found exactly what we were after.