How to Spend a Week in Guatemala (With a Few Hard-Earned Lessons Along the Way)

If you’re planning to cross into Guatemala from Mexico and make the most of a week, you’re in for a wild, beautiful, and occasionally chaotic ride. From candlelit caves to erupting volcanoes, Guatemala delivers adventure in every form — just be prepared to do a bit of planning (and possibly some re-routing). Here's how to make it unforgettable.

Entering Guatemala from Mexico

Most travellers come into Guatemala via San Cristóbal de las Casas, with shuttles easily arranged through hostels or local agencies. The journey is straightforward, but don’t skip the small — yet crucial — immigration details:

• If you weren't stamped into Mexico on arrival (many airports only give a paper slip), keep that slip. Losing it will cost you at the border.

• Complete the Mexico exit form online before you travel.

• Have proof of onward travel out of Guatemala available, as border officials may ask for it.

Expect minimal signage or direction during the process. Bring snacks, patience, and flexibility.

Getting to Semuc Champey (Word to the Wise -Don’t Copy Our Route)

Our original plan was to travel straight from the border to Semuc Champey, a natural limestone paradise in central Guatemala. In hindsight, this was overly ambitious.

Unless you’re coming from Antigua or Flores, Semuc is incredibly hard to get to directly. Our shuttle was due to drop us off in a remote town, which we hadn’t researched properly. We were quickly informed by our driver (in rapid Spanish) that the area was "famous for human and drug trafficking." We had to re-route our plans on the fly, with the updated itinerary including a 10-hour drive past our destination.

Eventually, we took an overnight shuttle to Lanquín. Though not the safest option, it got us there in one piece, and our hostel welcomed us with an early check-in.

Semuc Champey: A Jungle Adventure You’ll Never Forget

Once you’re there, Semuc Champey will be everything you hoped for — and more.

We stayed at Gringo’s Hostel, located near the national park. It’s set right in the jungle, with rooms arranged around a lush central pool, a fantastic on-site restaurant, and a genuinely welcoming vibe. The real highlight, however, was their cave and river tour — hands down one of the most exhilarating experiences of my life.

Here’s what it includes:

Candle-Lit Cave Tour

You begin the tour by entering a vast water-filled cave system, guided only by a rope and a small wax candle. Yes, really. Over the next hour, you swim through pitch-black pools, climb up small cave ledges, jump into underground water holes, and squeeze through narrow rock slides. It’s thrilling and completely unforgettable.

Waterfalls and Cliff Jumps

After the caves, you hike to a nearby waterfall where you can leap from cliffs into turquoise water. The setting is spectacular — remote, wild, and raw.

River Tubing with Surprise Beers

The final part of the tour is a laid-back float down the river in an inner tube. Local families stand along the banks, tossing beers to you (for a few quetzales), which you can sip as you drift back to the hostel.

There’s also an optional extreme tubing trip the following day, which includes small rapids and a lot more chaos — highly recommended if you’re still standing.

Note: Zephyr Lodge is the most well-known accommodation in the area. It’s popular for its panoramic views, pool, and party atmosphere, but it books out well in advance. If that’s your style, secure your spot early. If you're looking for something a little more grounded but equally beautiful, Gringo’s is an excellent alternative.

Lake Atitlán: A Lakeside Escape with Options

After a few days in the jungle, Lake Atitlán is a welcome change. Surrounded by volcanoes and dotted with colourful towns, it’s easy to explore by boat and a great place to slow the pace.

We based ourselves in San Pedro La Laguna, a lively and affordable hub with lots of dining options and easy access to the rest of the lake.

We stayed at Mr. Mullet’s Hostel, a high-energy party spot known for its Thursday boat parties and young backpacker crowd. If that’s your vibe, you’ll be in the right place. If not, you might want to stay elsewhere and just drop in for the events.

From San Pedro, here’s where to go:

San Marcos: A spiritual enclave known for yoga, holistic healing, and a great cliff jump.

San Juan: A vibrant, artsy town filled with murals, artisan shops, and galleries. Ideal for a day trip.

Santa Cruz: We spent a few slow days at Free Cerveza Hostel, where the highlight is a communal three-course dinner and an hour of all-you-can-drink beer beforehand. Paddleboarding, sunbathing, reading, and lake swims round out the day nicely.

Speedboats (lanchas) connect the towns regularly and are inexpensive, but check pricing with your hostel to avoid inflated tourist rates.

Antigua and the Acatenango Volcano Trek

The trip ends with a bang — quite literally — in Antigua, a UNESCO World Heritage city surrounded by volcanoes, including Volcán Fuego, which erupts regularly (and visibly) throughout the day.

We stayed at Doozy Koala Hostel, a quiet, clean spot ideal for recovering from your next big adventure: the Acatenango overnight trek.

We booked the hike through Tropicana Hostel, who provided everything we needed: guides, gear rentals, meals, and transport. The trek itself is demanding — six hours up a steep incline, followed by camping on the side of Acatenango at 3,600 metres.

But what comes next is worth it.

You’ll wake at 3:30 a.m. and climb an hour in the dark to the summit. If the weather’s clear, you’ll watch the sunrise from above the clouds with Volcán Fuego erupting in front of you. It's one of the most surreal moments you’ll experience as a traveller.

Pro tip: Book yourself a private room for the night after the hike. You won’t want to speak to anyone — or move — for at least 24 hours.

Guatemala is not a country that rewards winging it. Transport can be slow, distances are deceptive, and the infrastructure is hit or miss. But if you come with a loose plan, do your research, and stay open to changing it on the fly, the experiences you’ll have here are unforgettable.

From candlelit caves to volcanic sunrises, Guatemala delivers the kind of wild, real, layered travel that stays with you long after you leave.